The Art of Chikankari Embroidery: Preserving India’s Handcrafted Legacy with SEWA

Introduction: The Timeless Beauty of Chikankari

Chikankari embroidery, the delicate and intricate hand embroidery from India, is more than just a textile art—it is a cultural legacy woven through generations. Originating from the heart of Lucknow, this exquisite form of embroidery represents a graceful blend of craftsmanship, tradition, and storytelling. Known for its white-on-white detailing and fine needlework, Chikankari continues to charm fashion lovers across the globe. But beyond the beauty of the stitches lies the story of resilience, community, and empowerment, especially through the work of SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association), which plays a vital role in preserving this heritage and supporting its artisans.

In this blog, we explore the origins of Chikankari, its journey through history, the contemporary revival of the craft, and the crucial role of organisations like SEWA in protecting and uplifting the artisans behind this art.

The Origins of Chikankari: A Mughal Masterpiece

Chikankari, derived from the Persian word ‘chikan,’ meaning ‘embroidery,’ has roots that date back over 400 years. It is widely believed that the craft was introduced to India by Noor Jahan, the wife of Mughal emperor Jahangir, in the 16th century. Inspired by Persian aesthetics, she brought this elegant needlework to Lucknow, which soon became the epicentre of Chikankari craftsmanship.

Originally practised by male artisans at the Mughal court, Chikankari evolved into a domestic craft taken up by women in the region. Traditionally worked with white thread on fine muslin or cotton fabrics, the embroidery reflected motifs from nature—floral vines, paisleys, leaves, and birds—often stitched with astonishing delicacy and precision.

The embroidery was once a symbol of sophistication and was worn by royalty and nobility across northern India. Over the centuries, Chikankari was refined and adapted by generations of artisans, ensuring its place as one of India’s most beloved hand embroidery styles.

The Technique: What Makes Chikankari Unique

Chikankari embroidery is characterised by its light, shadowy effect on the fabric. Unlike more ornate forms of embroidery that rely heavily on embellishments, Chikankari thrives on subtlety and grace. It employs over 40 different stitches, including:

• Bakhiya (Shadow work)

• Phanda (Knot stitches)

• Murri (Rice grain stitch)

• Tepchi (Running stitch)

• Jaali (Net stitch)

  
  

Each piece is first hand-drawn with a washable ink pattern before artisans begin their meticulous stitching. The result is a soft, tactile texture that feels almost like lace but with more complexity. While originally worked on white muslin with white thread (a style known as ‘whitework’), today Chikankari is applied to a range of coloured fabrics and even blended with modern silhouettes for global appeal.

Chikankari Today: Revival and Reinvention

In recent decades, Chikankari has experienced a resurgence in popularity, both in India and abroad. Designers have reimagined the craft in contemporary forms—flowing kurtas, sarees, lehengas, and even Western outfits like dresses, shirts, and scarves. Its understated elegance makes it a favourite for both everyday wear and festive occasions.

Notable Indian fashion designers such as Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla and Manish Malhotra have embraced Chikankari in their collections, bringing the art back into the spotlight and onto global runways. Luxury labels and sustainable fashion brands have also begun incorporating Chikankari into their collections, ensuring its reach across diverse markets.

This renewed demand has opened new avenues for artisans, particularly women in rural Uttar Pradesh, who are now contributing to both the creative and economic revival of the craft.

Challenges Facing Chikankari Artisans

Despite its growing popularity, Chikankari artisans face multiple challenges that threaten the sustainability of their craft:

• Low Wages: Artisans often receive meagre compensation, disconnected from the actual retail value of their work.

• Lack of Recognition: Many women work from home, rendering their contribution invisible and uncredited.

• Middlemen Exploitation: The presence of exploitative middlemen often limits artisans' access to fair markets.

• Declining Skill Transmission: The younger generation is reluctant to continue the tradition due to financial instability and lack of formal training opportunities.

  
  

This is where grassroots organisations like SEWA step in to safeguard the craft and its creators.

SEWA: Empowering Women, Preserving Heritage

The Self Employed Women’s Association (SEWA) is a trade union for poor, self-employed women workers in India. Founded in 1972 by Elaben Bhatt in Gujarat, SEWA now works across multiple Indian states, including Uttar Pradesh, where Chikankari is most prominent.

SEWA's efforts in the realm of Chikankari are multifaceted:

1. Fair Wages and Market Access

SEWA connects artisans directly with buyers and ethical fashion brands, eliminating exploitative middlemen and ensuring that women receive fair compensation for their work. By establishing cooperatives and self-help groups, SEWA enables artisans to bargain collectively and gain better control over pricing and sales.

2. Skill Training and Capacity Building

To revive interest among the younger generation, SEWA provides training in Chikankari to young women, preserving the traditional skills while also teaching them about quality control, design innovation, and entrepreneurship. Training also includes digital literacy and e-commerce skills so that artisans can adapt to changing markets.

3. Legal and Social Protection

SEWA supports artisans in accessing government welfare schemes, identity documentation, and health insurance. It also facilitates legal aid to resolve workplace disputes and protect against exploitation.

4. Promoting Cultural Identity

Through exhibitions, storytelling, and branding, SEWA helps Chikankari artisans reclaim their cultural identity. Their work is not just showcased as a product but as a symbol of heritage, talent, and community.

SEWA’s intervention has transformed many lives—from helping women earn independently to reviving a traditional art form that was at risk of fading away.

Global Recognition and Ethical Fashion

As sustainability becomes central to fashion, Chikankari’s appeal is growing within the conscious consumer movement. Fashion lovers are seeking out hand-crafted pieces that support real artisans, preserve tradition, and reduce environmental impact. Buying Chikankari from ethical sources—especially cooperatives affiliated with SEWA—ensures the story behind the stitches is one of empowerment and not exploitation.

Retail platforms that focus on slow fashion and ethical trade now frequently feature SEWA-affiliated Chikankari collections. These pieces are not just garments—they are heirlooms with a purpose.

How You Can Support Chikankari and Its Artisans

If you're inspired by the art of Chikankari, here are a few simple ways you can help sustain the craft and support its creators:

• Buy Direct from Artisan Cooperatives: Look for fair trade platforms or SEWA-affiliated stores and exhibitions. Mango Luxe sources only from SEWA affiliated organisations. You can tell which is hand embroidered from the loose threads on the reverse. If they're neat and tidy it's machine embroidered so don't buy!

• Educate Others: Share the story of Chikankari and the role of SEWA to help raise awareness about ethical fashion.

• Choose Quality over Fast Fashion: Invest in timeless, handmade pieces instead of mass-produced, machine-embroidered imitations.

• Support Training Initiatives: Contribute to NGOs and initiatives that offer training and education to the next generation of artisans.

  
  

Conclusion: A Stitch in Time and Tradition

The art of Chikankari is more than embroidery—it’s a living tradition rooted in history, femininity, and cultural pride. As the world increasingly turns its eyes toward slow fashion and sustainable design, Chikankari is uniquely positioned to represent the best of India's heritage and the power of its women.

Thanks to organisations like SEWA, the women behind Chikankari are no longer hidden behind looms or relegated to anonymity. They are becoming entrepreneurs, community leaders, and artists in their own right.

In every Chikankari motif lies a story—a story of history, craft, resilience, and hope. And when you wear a piece of Chikankari, you wear that story too ♥️🧵🪡